I was a little bit disappointed in this book. I had initially picked up this book to learn about where giant waves were occurring, what causes them, etc. and while there was mention of those things, this book was mainly about surfing those giant waves.
At the start of the book, when the author is first introducing the reader to the surfers who will feature throughout the story, I didn’t really care about the surfers themselves. Yet the author does such a nice job of portraying the surfers as likable and relatable people that by the end of the story I actually cared about what was going on in their lives.
On the other hand, the author portrays the scientists interviewed throughout the story (although there aren’t very many) as aloof and unlikable. While reading the story it almost seems as though the author doesn’t understand the concepts and theories that the scientists are talking about and feels much more comfortable with the surfing crowd, as opposed to the scientific community.
The writing in this book is decent. The author does a nice job of mixing quotes and facts in a way that reads fluidly and efficiently. The author does not do a nice job with presenting data in an effective manner. The interviews with scientists seem very disjointed and the author seems to struggle with presenting their data in an understandable manner. Most of the scientific data is buried under mundane information about the characteristics of the scientists themselves.
If you’re looking for a book about surfing giant waves with a little bit thrown in about the science behind those waves, this is the book for you. If you’re looking for a book mainly about where rogue waves are occurring and what causes them, look elsewhere.
Bottom Line: I would give this book 6/10 stars. This book wasn’t what I had expected, I wish there had been more information about the science behind the waves rather than just information about the surfers surfing those waves. I would have given it a lower rating but the book itself is easy to read and still rather enjoyable, even if it wasn’t exactly what I expected.